Monday, June 23, 2008
Form removal
Only one problem area, and this wasn't too difficult. The lumber stayed clean and will be used in other areas.
Form removal
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Finishing the top of the block
It doesn't need to be pretty, but the top of the block needs to be cleaned off so that the next one sits down level. I took the hose around and washed off the edges just to make sure. Getting the blocks wet will help the concrete cure, as they tend to suck moisture out of an already stiff mixture (standard 5 sack mix). I could have made it easier on myself by ordering 10 yards of 5 sack for the footing and 4-5 yards of soupier 3/8" pea gravel for the blocks. As it was, we had to rod down through the blocks to get the stiff concrete down past the horizontal rebar. Calculated 13.5 yards, ordered 15, and used 14.5 yards. Where'd that extra concrete go? It's not in the bulging Fast Footer, because I calculated for that.Fast footer
Here's a good picture of how the fast footer bulges out. Not a drop came out of any of the seams, corners, overlaps, etc. You can see that a few of my vertical dowels got a little out of perpendicular, but those can be straightened a little as soon as the concrete cures.The concrete pump
It showed up over an hour late, but they called and kept me updated when they found out that their prior job was turning into a fiasco. Just as they got set up, the concrete showed up.Ready for the footing pour
Above the wheelbarrow is a "bridge" that I made so that the hose wouldn't drag on the block as we moved around. I was ready with the wheelbarrow, buckets, shovels, extra grade stakes, sledge hammer, etc., none of which was needed.Monday, June 16, 2008
Our first house guest
This little spike has been hanging around knoshing on my pear tree.
"Hey, what's this," he says.
"Looks like the start of a house made out of coffee cups and gravel."
"Here's the service entrance cable."Our first house guest.
Not much to eat in this house.
Here's the porch.
And out the front door.
Here's the porch.
And out the front door.Putting in rebar for the footing
Here's my rebar cutting and bending station. My old boat trailer was converted to a materials handling trailer.
Monday, June 09, 2008
Block jigs
Here's two jigs I made, one 45 degree and one 90 degree. The 45 has aluminum countertop trim on the edges to make it last for the several hundred 45 cuts I'll need to make. The 90 degree didn't work out to be so straight. I think I can probably eyeball a straighter cut. I'm using an old cross0cut hand saw. Takes about 20 seconds a cut and less noise and dust than the "normal" electric chainsaw.
Stem wall up for a "mono-set"
The blocks were then foamed together. A touch of foam in the track on both sides of the block locks them into place laterally.
A day's work. I need to put in a little more rebar and call for an inspection.
Block placement 3
Once the preliminary allignment was done, the track was screwed down.
Fine tuning was done using the strings from the batter boards.
I bought several hundred composite window shims which can be inserted inside of the track to align the level of the blocks. We used 3 shims. Oh well, I have some left over for the rest of the stacking and the house windows. Block placement 2
The wood is removed and the block is set down on the CFS track.
The edges of the track don't cut into the smaller pieces, but the weight of the full blocks starts to cut in immediately.
This is what it looks like when settled down. If your form boards are level, your block is level.
Most of the blocks took some persuading. Tapping on the track with a rubber mallet made the block settle right down. A preliminary allignment was then done.
The edges of the track don't cut into the smaller pieces, but the weight of the full blocks starts to cut in immediately.
This is what it looks like when settled down. If your form boards are level, your block is level.
Most of the blocks took some persuading. Tapping on the track with a rubber mallet made the block settle right down. A preliminary allignment was then done. Block placement
Here's a box of the fabricated pieces.
I used a 16d nail to punch two holes in each side for using drywall screws to attach to the form boards.
The block is first placed on wood supports (a little thicker than the CFS track that we're using.)
Then the CFS track is inserted at the "nodes". The placement insures that they supports won't interfere with the later placement of the vertical rebar that has to come up through the block.
I used a 16d nail to punch two holes in each side for using drywall screws to attach to the form boards.
The block is first placed on wood supports (a little thicker than the CFS track that we're using.)
Then the CFS track is inserted at the "nodes". The placement insures that they supports won't interfere with the later placement of the vertical rebar that has to come up through the block. Combo Footing Spreaders/Block Support
This is the secret of my block placement. The boards are for the fast footer fabric, but the metal pieces are 24" sections of Cold Formed Steel "track" for CFS 2.5" studs. The material is readily available at building material stores for $6.50 for 10' sticks. I cut them into pieces to fit our 21" footer width (24" with the footer boards).
I stood on the board to make sure they would support the block weight. I used only two for most blocks, more where I intended to make future alterations to the block.
I stood on the board to make sure they would support the block weight. I used only two for most blocks, more where I intended to make future alterations to the block. Block Arrives
Our ICF block finally arrived. We had a local lumberyard ferry the load in from the main highway using their smaller trucks and all-terrain fork lifts. It took over three hours with the guys working on a Sunday. I didn't ask if the lumberyard knew or if they were moonlighting. I was just glad to get the block on site. I had several broken blocks where the blocks were sat down on ground that wasn't well prepared (flat).
The broken ones can be glued back together.
I've read about a lot of problems with getting block delivered from Rastra or similar suppliers. My situation was kind of strange, with the supplier (under a different name) giving me a great price quote. Delivery was only several weeks late, and then I never heard from nor could find the supplier again, despite trying to contact them. The block was shipped from Arizona (not the location of the supplier) and I think that it may have been shipped from the plant that manufactured block for Rastra. Having worked with Rastra block before, I know that this stuff is identical.
The broken ones can be glued back together.
I've read about a lot of problems with getting block delivered from Rastra or similar suppliers. My situation was kind of strange, with the supplier (under a different name) giving me a great price quote. Delivery was only several weeks late, and then I never heard from nor could find the supplier again, despite trying to contact them. The block was shipped from Arizona (not the location of the supplier) and I think that it may have been shipped from the plant that manufactured block for Rastra. Having worked with Rastra block before, I know that this stuff is identical. 